The Truth Behind Sunscreens

Q: We like sunscreens to be lightweight and don’t want them to clog our pores or feel heavy. Should we look for something that is oil free?

Some marketers label their products "oil free" because they use ingredients that don’t have the word "oil" in the INCI name (INCI is the International Nomencalture of Cosmetic Ingredients – the formulator’s bible). Sunscreens are one common example, since sunscreen ingredients themselves are mostly all oil based chemicals and are oily in nature but do not include the the word "oil' in their chemical names. Marketers are fudging the truth and consumers are the ones coming away with oil on their faces. And in some cases with clogged pores! That said, not all oil is bad, and oil doesn’t necessarily cause acne or clog pores. Each individual ingredient should to be tested ensure that nothing is pore-clogging.

Q: If there’s no such thing as an oil free sunscreen, what about “organic?” That sounds like it would be better for our skin than chemicals!

That’s another misleading (and under-regulated) bit of labeling. In fact, in basic chemistry, if something is labeled organic, by definition it must have carbons and, conversely, if there are no carbons, it is inorganic. Unlike the food industry, the beauty industry has no regulations governing the use of this term – thus, it is often used inappropriately. For instance, two commonly used sunscreen ingredients, Titanium Dioxide and Zinc Oxide, are often found in sunscreens labeled “organic,” yet they are actually inorganic as they don’t contain any carbons. Both are naturally occurring chemical compounds … but perhaps the term “naturally occurring chemical compound” doesn’t sound as compelling on packaging? Yet I believe that consumers want straight talk, and in our desire to sell products we’re doing them, and our industry, a disservice.

Q: So, what should we look for in a sunscreen?

Four things: facial sunscreen should be non-comedogenic, it shouldn’t run into your eyes, it should provide broad spectrum UVA and UVB protection, and it shouldn’t cause your skin to turn blue or ashy. Sounds easy, but you’d be surprised how many sunscreens don’t fit the bill, which gives many people an excuse to avoid wearing sunscreen every day.
 
After all, no one wants to wear a product that feels heavy or causes breakouts. That’s why non-comedogenicity is so important. Further, if you’ve ever been playing tennis or out for a run on a summer’s day you’ll understand what I mean about not wanting your sunscreen to run into your eyes. It’s a basic need for me! As for broad spectrum protection – that should be a basic need for anyone who wants to avoid burning and collagen break-down! With newer technologies there’s no reason why you can’t find all those things, all delivered by a formula that won’t turn your skin a funny color. And that’s the truth!